Post by treva on May 3, 2017 4:34:23 GMT
Hi Folks
Well, this will help for the faint hearted if you need to take it apart for some reason. I was like that, but I overcame my fear. So if I can do it, anybody can. Firstly have your Cellphone or Digital camera ready, and take plenty of pics.
Right lets get at it.
First thing off is the landing gear. If you glued them in like Urban Drones recommended, you are going to have probs from the start. If you viewed Eric Bauschs Video on calibration, you will see that he maintains they will stay in without glue. As they are a force fit. I used silicone on mine, on the outside, not the inside. Just a bit of insurance. Easy to remove when you need to take the landing gear off. Right you have the Landing gear off.
Now its time to deal to the lid. I found a set of tweezers are indispensable when dealing with the inner connections, and are very handy when plugging the battery in on the Radio Controller. Go to your flight controller and pull out the two GPS wires, take a pic before you do if you like. But its the red one on the bottom, then the black one above that. When putting them back in, one side is just dead flat, the other side has the copper connection showing. The copper side goes back in facing you, so that's copper side to the rear of the craft, flat side to the top. Right that's the lid out of the way.
Now unscrew the 27 screws, holding the two body parts together. Then pull the body parts, well apart. No great force is needed, don't worry if the white gasket drops down, its easy to put back in.
Now if you are just doing a bit of silicone sealing, you should be able to get it done, without doing anymore. But if you are going in to replace something, well there is a bit of disconnecting to do.
Firstly reach inside the body and deal with the RD9, that is the black thing stuck on the right hand side with the SD facing away from you, its a velcro to velcro fitting and just well rips off. Just take/pull it gently and it will come away. Place it in the bottom section on the floor of the craft.
Right now it will look like this:
If you need to go further, the motor wires are going to have to be disconnected from the ESC's. That is the electronic speed controllers. So its time for the felt pen, and I also used some sticky back white labels. It gets a little confusing here, for some reason Swell Pro, has all black leads coming from the ESC to the motor wires, but you have a red/blue/black coming from your motor. So its time for a little labeling. Now you can put a slit in the white plastic covering the ESC's to assist you here or do as I did, and use the felt pen (Permanent not Whiteboard) and mark as I did. Last pic I can put on here. rest will be in a reply to this.
R
Well, this will help for the faint hearted if you need to take it apart for some reason. I was like that, but I overcame my fear. So if I can do it, anybody can. Firstly have your Cellphone or Digital camera ready, and take plenty of pics.
Right lets get at it.
First thing off is the landing gear. If you glued them in like Urban Drones recommended, you are going to have probs from the start. If you viewed Eric Bauschs Video on calibration, you will see that he maintains they will stay in without glue. As they are a force fit. I used silicone on mine, on the outside, not the inside. Just a bit of insurance. Easy to remove when you need to take the landing gear off. Right you have the Landing gear off.
Now its time to deal to the lid. I found a set of tweezers are indispensable when dealing with the inner connections, and are very handy when plugging the battery in on the Radio Controller. Go to your flight controller and pull out the two GPS wires, take a pic before you do if you like. But its the red one on the bottom, then the black one above that. When putting them back in, one side is just dead flat, the other side has the copper connection showing. The copper side goes back in facing you, so that's copper side to the rear of the craft, flat side to the top. Right that's the lid out of the way.
Now unscrew the 27 screws, holding the two body parts together. Then pull the body parts, well apart. No great force is needed, don't worry if the white gasket drops down, its easy to put back in.
Now if you are just doing a bit of silicone sealing, you should be able to get it done, without doing anymore. But if you are going in to replace something, well there is a bit of disconnecting to do.
Firstly reach inside the body and deal with the RD9, that is the black thing stuck on the right hand side with the SD facing away from you, its a velcro to velcro fitting and just well rips off. Just take/pull it gently and it will come away. Place it in the bottom section on the floor of the craft.
Right now it will look like this:
If you need to go further, the motor wires are going to have to be disconnected from the ESC's. That is the electronic speed controllers. So its time for the felt pen, and I also used some sticky back white labels. It gets a little confusing here, for some reason Swell Pro, has all black leads coming from the ESC to the motor wires, but you have a red/blue/black coming from your motor. So its time for a little labeling. Now you can put a slit in the white plastic covering the ESC's to assist you here or do as I did, and use the felt pen (Permanent not Whiteboard) and mark as I did. Last pic I can put on here. rest will be in a reply to this.
R